3. two weeks in florence

With a moment to breathe, we spend two weeks getting back to work and exploring a city that deserves two full weeks. Finally (mostly) getting away from touristy areas, we get to experience local life and settle into a comfortable routine of exploring the city in the day and working at night.

florence Pyramid of greatness

in short

A lowkey city so filled with art, food, museums - and it's so flat and condensed we didn't need a single taxi, bus, or metro (in fact, there isn't one). We train into Florence from Cinque Terre and settle into a beautiful old Airbnb right near Santa Croce, exploring and visiting museums in the day then working from about 5pm until 2am each night. Tiring, yes, but well worth it as we count ourselves lucky every morning when we get to spend our free time climbing the iconic Duomo or wandering the gardens of the Palazzo Pitti.

what we did

Between working, here's what we did in order and would recommend.

All'antico Vinaio - Also making an appearance in the pyramid of greatness, if you've been to Florence you know this sandwich shop. It's worth the hype. We braved the lines twice. I dream of this sandwich

Koto Ramen - Local, surprisingly outstanding Japanese fare

Le Vespa Cafe - Great brunch

Santa Croce Cathedral - Smaller cousin to the Duomo but still worth a visit

Palazzo Pitti and Gardens of Boboli - Beautiful residences and garden with views of the city

Giuliano Ricchi Jewelry - Local jeweler (like you have to ring his doorbell to be let in) that will happily custom make anything at a great price if he's free

Siena - Make a day trip and visit the cathedral as well as Bruscello Bistro

Uffizi - One of the great museums of the world

Palazzo Vechio - Unforgettable city hall and one of the largest rooms in Europe

Cucina Torcicoda - Recommended in New York Time's 36 hours in, lives up to the hype

Sushiami - All you can eat sushi in Florence, surprisingly good, and a welcome break from all the pasta

Palazzo Medici - Great art and another museum worth visiting

New Bridge Pizza Club - Actually good pizza away from tourist hot spots with great beer

Duomo - Make the arduous climb to the top of the dome and you'll be rewarded

Foody Farm - Also recommend in 36 hours in, well worth a visit for lunch

Gallerie Dell'Academia - You have to see David, make a reservation and be prepared for a wait

next time

Somehow we missed the iconic Palazzo Michelangelo at sunset with views above the city, but to be fair the weather was intermitted thunderstorms and showers the entire two weeks. From all the walking you'll be too tired too. Less touristy than Rome, more understated than Milan, and with a deep and rich history, Florence is well worth the visit and the perfect place for an extended stay.

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2. weekend in cinque terre